Five Quick Tips for Better Leash Walking Manners ~

1. Be a tree. If your dog pulls on the leash, stop walking! Only continue walking once your dog has put slack in the leash. Consider a head halter or front-hook harness if your dog tends to pull.

2. Don't allow your dog to approach another dog without permission from the owner. Just because your dog is friendly, doesn't mean every dog is! If the other owner declines, don't get offended or try to force the other dog into a greeting. Remember, that the other dog may be recovering from surgery or an illness; he could be in training; or he may just have had a bad experience in the past.

3. Pick up after your dog. Not only is it unsightly and unpleasant to step in, dog waste is a source of pollution for surface water supplies, harboring pathogens like E. coli and giardia. So always pack some dog waste bags when you take a walk!

4. Barking at other dogs. Leash reactivity is a common problem among dogs that don't get enough mental stimulation or exercise. Try trick training and treat-dispensing toys along with longer and more frequent exercise sessions. Fetch, swimming, and running at the park are all great ways to supplement a daily walk.

5. Lunging and barking at passing cars, bikes, and skateboarders. This is often seen in herding breeds. The motion of the wheels can trigger a predator/prey response in your dog and incite him to chase. You can help this problem by redirecting your dog as soon as he notices a moving object. Create distance by moving away from the object. Redirect your dog with tasty treats and easy "tricks" like sit, down, shake, and following you as you walk backward.

Quick Tips for Making Car Rides a Pleasure with Canines ~

1. Restrain him. Use a crate or a seat belt and harness for your dog when riding in the car. Not only could your dog get loose on the road during an accident, he or she can become a projectile and injure the driver and passengers in the event of an accident or even just a sudden stop.

2. Get him comfortable. If the only time your dog ever gets in the car is to go the veterinarian, he may start to view it as a bad thing. Make sure to take some fun trips to the park, pet supply store, or a fun training class!

3. Preventing Car Sickness: If your dog gets carsick, ask your vet about motion sick medications for dogs. It could make your trips together a lot more fun!

4. Barking in the Car: Dogs that bark in the car are often over stimulated by the other cars, motion, and any other sights they may see out the window. Try using a crate in the car and giving a food-stuffed toy to keep your dog busy while riding.

5. Fear of Car Rides: Try some counter-conditioning if your dog is afraid of car rides. Try feeding and giving treats to your dog near the car at first, then near the car while the doors are open, then with the bowl on the floor of the car and the dog standing outside, etc. Continue with this gradual progression until your dog associates the car with good things, like mealtime and treats!

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How to Give Treats When Training – Yes, It Matters!

Seriously? There’s a special way I have to give my dog a treat? If you are trying to communicate what you want your dog to do, then definitely “yes!”

Hold the treat in your fist so that just a little of it is exposed so your dog knows it’s there but can’t get it. It should be right in front of her nose, not a foot in front of it. This will keep your dog from moving forward, which is not what you want when teaching him “sit” or “down.” If she tries to come forward, keep your hand position firm, even moving it toward her nose to keep her in place.

The moment she’s done what you’ve asked of her, let her nibble off a tiny piece of the goody from your fist. If the treat is something that really excites your dog, it will be like having an invisible string tying her nose to your hand, allowing you to guide her into any position you want – power steering for your dog! It also lets you reward him at just the right moment.

Don’t throw the treat. She’ll get up to get it, and you don’t want her to think she can break that sit or down!

Holding the treat in your fist will also discourage grabbing of your fingers. Your hand will get licked and slobbered on, and it will be yucky, but don’t worry. You are washable! If she’s grabby, just enclose the treat tightly in your fist, and say “Easy!” or “Gentle!” and put your hand with the treat behind your back for a moment. Do not give any treat until she takes it gently. She will learn quickly that grabbing won’t get her what she wants.

Some people like to use treats cut into tiny pieces, but I find that having one larger piece takes less dexterity and digging in pockets when timing is of the essence. Using this method, half of a hot dog or one stick of string cheese is enough to get you through a 30-minute or longer lesson. You’ll be amazed at how quickly your dog will understand what you want!
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Distraction Training

Getting Your Dog to Ignore the Chaos and Obey Your Commands

If your dog is unaccustomed to compliance in unpredictable, high-pressure situations, his training could fail him when it matters most-in speeding traffic, for instance.
Distractions should be very slight at the beginning of training and gradually increase in degree of challenge. As with training motivators, the nature of distractions should depend on the individual dog. In fact, even things you normally use as motivators or rewards, such as treats, can serve as distracters. But should the treat prove irresistible, it might be better to choose a less-challenging distracter at first.

Build distraction resistance one factor at a time in the early training stages; as your dog gets better at ignoring temptation, he'll be ready for multivariable distractions.

Here's an example:

  • Plato is a mildly food-motivated dog with average-to-high toy drive. The external stimulus will be a flying tennis ball at close range (in the kitchen) for a short period of time.
  • Owner holds Plato on a leash. She throws the ball and, as Plato follows the trajectory, commands Plato to sit. Plato ignores the command and goes off to investigate the toy.
  • Owner calmly walks over, gently takes Plato by the collar, leads her back to the spot where she ignored the “sit” command, and firmly (but not roughly) re-sits the dog.
  • Owner repeats same distraction with the ball. Plato goes off to investigate again. This time the owner is better prepared, with less slack on the leash so Plato can't flee the “sit” spot, despite her obvious intent to do so. Since the first correction wasn't effective, the owner gives a mild tug on the leash as she re-sits and praises the dog.
  • If Plato had not responded to the tug, a gradual escalation would have been indicated. But first a question: Is the chosen distraction simply too stimulating for the dog?
  • If the tennis ball was driving her wild, the owner could have tried placing the ball on the floor instead of throwing it. This could make the exercise easier for Plato to handle. One can always build up the degree of difficulty gradually.
  • Next, her owner must try her in different locations to be sure she understands that “sit” means sit wherever a tennis ball may appear -- not just in the kitchen or house.
Individual dogs vary as to their strengths and weaknesses, so train at the pace your dog can handle. Your patience will be rewarded.


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Breaking Up a Dog Fight

What to Do and Avoid When Stopping a Dog FightDon’t become a victim in a dog fight. Keep in mind that aggressive dogs will attack anything in their fight zone during a confrontation.
Let’s first focus on the wrong ways to stop a dog fight.

Never reach in with your hands to separate two fighting dogs. The intense, violent nature of the fight may cause even your own dog not to recognize your hand or arm as separate from the rival dog. Animals may attack anything in the fight zone, and serious bites can result.

Also, never grab the dog by the tail and attempt to pull him away from the fight. The dog is maximally stimulated and might quickly wheel around and bite your hand.

So, what can you do? Trainers, veterinarians, dog groomers, and veterinary technicians offer a wide variety of answers. Here’s a few:

  • Step on the combatant’s feet. This distracts the dog enough for him to stop fighting.
  • Place a large push broom against the chest of the fighter and shove him away from the other dog.
  • Blow loud, shrill blasts from a whistle, such as a police whistle, right above the fight to distract the dogs.
  • Throw water on them.
There probably isn’t one surefire way to break up a dogfight. It does seem there a lot of unsafe ways that can lead to very serious bites.

Exercise some common sense. Use foresight before placing your dog in stressful situations that may lead to a fight. If your dog is aggressive or a chronic fighter, don’t let him off-leash when he’s with other dogs. Obedience and socialization classes can help turn a fighter into a better citizen and a more enjoyable companion.


Dog Park Courtesy

Common Courtesy is Common Sense at Dog Parks

If you’re an urban or suburban dog owner, you’re likely familiar with the local dog park. It’s a canine oasis, where your leash-less pet is free to sniff, run and socialize with other dogs. Some parks post specific rules on signs, but dog park courtesy is mostly common sense.


  • Should your pet show signs of illness or a contagious disease, don’t bring him/her to the park.
  • Don’t bring a puppy less than 4 months old or a female dog in heat.
  • Keep an eye on your dog! Don’t let your dog be aggressive with another dog.
  • Obviously, you should pick up after your dog.
  • Don’t bring food for yourself or your dog.
  • Bring a portable water bowl for your dog – water bowls at dog parks carry the risk of communicable illnesses.
  • Keep your small dog in the designated small-dog section of the park – even if he/she enjoys hanging out with the big dogs.
  • Bring a ball, but be prepared to lose it.
  • Don’t let your dog run in a pack. Intervene when play starts to get too rough.

How to Prevent Your Puppy from Chewing on Your Personal Belongings

Puppies have two sets of teeth that emerge within the first six months of life. Just like human babies, they often find chewing soothing. And even after teething, some dogs just like to chew. You can't expect your puppy to instinctively know what is okay for her to chew on and what is not. Instead, you will need to guide and shape her habits in more healthy ways. For instance, you can give your puppy high-quality dog toys made just for chewing. But, you may have to experiment before you find out which ones your puppy likes. Look for toys that are hard (but not too hard) and do not have small bits that can be chewed off and swallowed. Never give your puppy old shoes and socks to chew on, since both of these items can become choking hazards. And if you have young children, don’t let your puppy play with their stuffed animals and don’t give her similar toys (even if they are from the pet store). Puppy tip: Give your puppy toys that are as different as possible from your own possessions.
Getting a forbidden item from your puppy If your puppy gets hold of something that you don’t want her to play with, intervene quickly. Don't yell; this will only scare her. Also, don't chase your puppy to try to retrieve the item. She may think you’re playing a game with her. Keep a ready supply of more interesting toys or treats. Offering your puppy a treat or one of these toys should cause her to drop your possession and choose the appropriate one. Be patient. Eventually, your puppy will learn that she must play with her own toys. Limiting access to your personal belongings is important. Pick up your belongings and keep closet doors closed.
Cupboards Just like toddlers, dogs can learn to pry doors open. Consider installing child-proof latches on cupboard or closet doors. Even if your puppy doesn't get into the cupboard that contains the drain cleaner, there are still other hazards that can easily be avoided. For example, it doesn’t take a puppy very long to get into a bag of dog kibble or human food and consume enough of it to cause serious gastric problems.
Medications Place medications in secure containers located in secure places (not on your bedside table). Puppies can chew through child-proof bottles! When you need to take medications, go to a room away from your puppy in case you spill some tablets on the floor (if you don’t know already, you'll quickly learn that puppies move fast).
The outside of your home The outdoor part of your home can be dangerous for puppies, too. Read all instructions regarding pesticides and fertilizers and make sure you store these items—as well as antifreeze, paint thinners and solvents—out of your puppy’s reach. Slug bait is also deadly to dogs. Look for pet-friendly products, but don't forget that even 'natural' substances (such as compost) can be harmful to your puppy’s health. Don't let your puppy into the garage, workshop or shed where you store these items. If your yard is fenced in, make sure that there are no places where your dog can squeeze out.
Be very careful if you have a pool or a pond, since many dogs (especially puppies) have drowned after falling into water while the owner isn’t paying attention. Teaching a dog to swim to the shallow end (or even to climb a ladder) to get out of a pool can be a lifesaver. The entrances to your home can be the most dangerous places for your puppy. Many puppies are prone to slipping outside as soon as a door is opened, where they can easily scoot onto the road and get hit by a car. Make sure someone has control of your puppy before opening the door (or use gates to bar your puppy from the entrance).​

4 Ways to Relieve Your Dog's Fear of Loud Noises November 27, 2017 Lucy Sheppard Training & Development Do you have a dog that is terrified of loud noises such as thunder or fireworks? It can be devastating to watch as your dog tremble in fear, pant, and pace around every time a storm approaches or during Independence Day celebrations. The reasons why some dogs have a phobia of loud noises while others don't isn’t always clear. Yet, no matter what the cause, when your dog goes into this panic mode, you'll want to do just about anything to relieve her noise anxiety.

Is There Anything That Can Relieve My Dog's Noise Anxiety? When your dog suffers from noise anxiety, the symptoms can range from mild, such as shaking and panting, to severe, including excessive pacing and even clawing through drywall. Unfortunately, there isn’t always a lot you can do about noise anxiety, and it can worsen as your dog gets older. Yet, some relief can be found in a few simple techniques.
  Reward Calm Behavior Often, dog owners unknowingly encourage anxious behavior by petting or trying to console a panicky dog. This only reassures their clingy behavior. Although you must not scold your dog for acting this way, you do not want to reward them either. When your dog begins to panic, playing fetch or offering them their favorite toy or their dry dog food may work as a distraction and calm them down. During times when there is not a storm or other loud noises, practice getting your dog to lie at your feet while praising the calm behavior. By learning this routine beforehand, you can command your dog to sit and relax next to you when a storm comes. Hopefully your dog will replace the fear of what is going on outside with something more comforting.
  Find a Safe Place When fireworks are going off or if there is a clap of thunder in the sky, notice where your dog goes and allow him access if possible. This could be a room, a crate, or a garage. If your dog can't see or hear what's going on outside, it may be just enough to calm him down. The best advice is to let your dog decide where to go, within reason of course. Also, you will want to make certain that your dog does not feel trapped as that will only make the anxiety worse.
  Get Their Favorite Blanket Ready When you anticipate some loud noises, wrap your dog's favorite blanket around them and have them lay down on the floor or couch next to you. Often dogs will retreat to a familiar comfort spot when anxious or panicky and having their favorite blanket there will certainly help. You can also try a snug-fitting shirt or wrap. There are several so called "pressure garments" on the market that are specifically designed to calm an anxious dog. Some dogs respond better to these kinds of garments than others, yet research suggests that they are certainly worth a try.
  Your Vet May Know Best If these methods aren't effective enough or your dog is in a horrible state of anxiety, you may want to ask your veterinarian for some behavior modification ideas or possibly anti-anxiety medication.  While it should not be your first choice, medication may be the best option in extreme cases. Some dog owners only give their pet medication just prior to a thunderstorm or celebration involving fireworks. It is best to work with your vet to determine a proper treatment plan. No one knows for sure why some dogs are fearful of loud noises such as thunder and fireworks. Yet, we do know that if left untreated, the panic and anxiety gets worse with time. Fortunately, there are some things loving dog parents can do about it even in severe cases. So, the next time your dog goes into panic mode, try some of the simple techniques mentioned here.